It’s been raining for a week when I meet Josh Pfriem, brewmaster and co-founder of pFriem Beer, at his tasting room fronting the Columbia in Hood River. In a town of 12,000 people with a ridiculous brewery-to-resident ratio, pFriem is the cool kid on the block. It’s the place to take visitors for dinner or to grab a beer after a day of work, or a bike ride, or any of the wind sports available outside the brewery’s front door. We start to talk beer, but eventually the conversation steers towards something broader—about what it means to be a craft beer now, in a time where seemingly everything is a craft.